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Day 68: Aren't we there yet?  A notification of this news item was emailed to subscribers. Click to subscribe!  [4th Aug 08]  See below for comments (14)

Part of our topo map showing the tangled maze of contour lines and lakes - Click for full-size.


As seems to be the norm following a record day hauling, we inadvertently slept in an extra hour today, but no real harm done.

We were soon up and at it, after enjoying the 2nd last coffee ration we have left (we're saving the last spoonful for a celebration coffee at the far side!). The weather was kind to us again today, the rain held off, and although by midmorning the sun had vanished behind a blanket of clouds, never to return, the remainder of the day was pleasantly cool and a light wind kept us from sweltering to death up the many hills.

Something we've both really noticed up here is how far sound carries - bird calls for instance, we'll hear what sounds like a duck honking right near us, and only after some looking around, track it down to a tiny speck on a distant lake. The same with talking to each other, the other day we were standing on two different mini hills, well over 100m apart as we were both looking for route options ahead, and after our hand signals, shrugging and pointings became too confusing, I just tried shouting, and it was as if we could just speak normally to each other. The world is so quiet up here, it's really something.

After our delayed start, we soon caught up with our average 2km/nut break, and things were looking great. More rolling hills with the odd sharp ditch, more rolling hills, and then, a rocky hill came into sight, and then more of them - we were surrounded. *dramatic chords* Considering the pitiful state of our tire covers, we had been dreading being forced to do any more rough rock sections, but it seems all good things come to an end, and so too must our favorite terrain. We tried to pick the least savage route through jumbled fields of white, sharp rocks, and went for it. There was much grating and grinding and the sounds or rubber being nicked and pulled and snatched at by sharp edges and twanging back, some very near misses as lances of rock slid by mere centimeters from the wheel side while others were totally engulfed by our balloon tires... but several rock hills later, we found ourselves lowering the PAC down the jumbled face of the last one, and a sea of earthy tundra once again stretching out in front of us! We got through without a single puncture. You've no idea how ludicrous that is. One of our wheel covers has now slid off the inner tube almost entirely, exposing more than 2/3 of the inner tube, flapping and flopping around as the wheel lurches around. We're going to do a very brief bit of tire care in the morning before setting off, but really... there's not much we can do anymore. Our PAC is on its last legs, and so are we. It's lucky that the end is so near... I guess if the end was still 150km away, and we still had weeks left out here, then we'd be fine, and we'd just accept it, and life would continue on out here as it has done for the past two months, but now that the end is SO close, I think our mind is letting our bodies shut down a little. We can't cope with too much more. Mentally, I think, we are already there: we can picture it, we've lived that moment a thousand times in our mind, and really, all these days in between sometimes feel like they are just.. in our way. =P And yet we know we can't let our guard down even for a moment, as anything could still so easily stop us.

This last section of the island - the last 60 km or so - is very technical navigation. There are just so many contour lines, so many hills and gulleys and rivers and lakes and 'unconsolidated ground' and cliffs and false-summits and hidden valleys that picking a route through it at all, let alone trying to pick the most efficient route, is proving to be quite a challenge sometimes. We now combine the powers of Google Earth, our topo map, our GPS and a satellite photo map with 10m contours on it that we have for this final section - pouring over all these resources gives us a fair idea of what's going on ahead, but half the time, it's the little details like "well..sure..so there's a 120m contour line here, and the surface of the lake is right next to it... but.. is the lake at 111m, and therefore ringed by a 9m impassable cliff, or is the lake 120m also, with a nice broad walkway around it..?" These things can make all the difference, and you just can't tell until you find out the hard way. We have been pretty lucky with our predictions to date though, and a little 'making it up as we go along' adds excitement to the day anyway =)

What else happened? We saw a few wolf prints, and also noted down the location of another potential tundra landing strip - whenever we spot flat, level, firm ground over 300m long, we’re marking it down for our mate Rene at Adlair Aviation back in Cambridge Bay, as such sites are few and far between, and can be really useful to know about, as you can imagine =)

We hauled 13.72 km today, which we are again, delighted with, especially with the late start and rocky terrain. That leaves us with... wait for it... 22.08 km left to go! Oh it's so CLOSE. But still... so far!! Although, if we get another good day tomorrow, we could break into the single-digit km-to-go! *Fingers Crossed*

We're exhausted.

Just enjoyed our last 'Sweet and Sour Lamb' dehydrated dinner sitting, legs dangling off the 'front verandah' of our PAC, as the evening chill set in. Something we've been meaning to rave about for ages - our titanium spoons! We only brought one item of cutlery (each), and these extra-long handled titanium spoons are brilliant. Anyone who's tried to eat a dehydrated meal from the packet knows how messy and frustrating it is trying to delve in for those last tasty morsels right down the bottom with a normal-length spoon - the packets are always so tall! Well, these spoons are designed for the job. They are like 20cm long, light as a feather and indestructible. Cheesy voice: "These spoons get the Chris and Clark tick of approval, and can be bought at Paddy Pallin" haha =) But seriously, get one if you're going camping. Some of you probably remember the constant snapping of our polycarbonate 'unbreakable' spoons in 2005, every few nights I'd have to melt the broken ends with a cigarette lighter and squish them together, which made the runty little spoons even shorter. =P


Global Marine Networks provides the satellite email software xGate for all our expeditions. Check it out, it's awesome!Landwide Satellite Solutions provides us with our Iridium 9505A satellite phones & accounts, as well as data adaptors that let us send and receive emails on our Eee PCs via satellite! Sat phones are amazing, and Landwide is the place to get them!We are using the awesome new ASUS Eee PC 900's on this expedition! Solid-state, less than 1kg, Windows XP, perfect!

Our live expedition updates are written on our tiny ASUS Eee PC 900 laptops, and sent via Iridium 9505A satellite phones from Landwide Satellite Solutions, using email compression software xGate from Global mareine Networks! Thanks guys - it's the perfect set up!


5th Aug 08 - Tricia Foran - commented:

Wow so close to the finish, Im going to celebrate for you with a glass of champers, go guys, Im sooo excited for you, carnt imagine how you feel.What an achievement, so proud of our Aussie Guys....
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4th Aug 08 - Pirate - commented:

Ok, well I'm sure there is now a collective "fingers crossed" by hundreds of people this side of the arctic circle! by the looks of things and the law of averages, we should only get two more updates, while you guys are "under-way". which is just amazing news, considering how far you have come and how few days it has taken! (from my point of view!) So touch wood (my hand is on my head) it will be a pleasant couple of days! and we shall be hearing what the west Victoria Island coast line looks like! Great news guys, looking forward to sharing a beer or two with you guys in Avalon! ;-)
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4th Aug 08 - Jane L - commented:

How excitement! Can you believe it, you guys are soooooo close to the finish line!! Put your backs into it the next day or two, and get that adrenalin pumping. We're all cheering for you with pom poms and all :D
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4th Aug 08 - Danae Gibson - commented:

Awesome Effort! Enjoy the last drops of a mighty drink of life, fellas ... look forward to talking to you on the radio in Perth when you return to Oz. You are inspirational. All Power to Ya!
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4th Aug 08 - arian - commented:

it's all happening for you two! it's GREAT! you were used to "single digits distance" for your hauling of the day, tomorrow, it might be for the "finish line distance"! how amazing!!!! good on you guys!!! happy hauling tomorrow..even though your exaustion might reach incredible heights! good luck and happy rest to you two!
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4th Aug 08 - Adam @ the Splash! - commented:

Awesome, guys, keep going! We're all rooting for you!
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5th Aug 08 - John Joc - commented:

Chris & Clark I am looking forward to the surf report when you get there and hoping for nice offshore breeze and clean 5/6' peeling off
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5th Aug 08 - Rachel F - commented:

Hey Guys - as Chris "Buddha" Handy would bellow if this was rugby - GO YOU GOOD THING!!!@! (and just keep avoiding those pretty white bears!). All the best, Rach
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5th Aug 08 - Kev from Perth - commented:

I just rode from Perth to the border and back and found the last 150km was the hardest until I slowed down and enjoyed the final moment, know what I mean. Well done guys.
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5th Aug 08 - Emidio Boto - commented:

1cm BOYS!! Just ONE CENTERMETER now!! you're there!!!!!!
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5th Aug 08 - Michelle - commented:

22km! Wow! Did you stash a secret bottle of champers in the PAC somewhere??
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5th Aug 08 - Peter & Caroline - commented:

Well done guys.... the Banksia will be yours for a day with all the cold beer and meat pies can consume..... :-) You're both crazy, but awesome. p & c
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5th Aug 08 - Colin Dickie - commented:

If you don't minde I'll fly out on your pick up. there should be lots of room and I haven't been up to that end of the world for a while. Please civey that to Renie if possible.
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5th Aug 08 - Chris - commented:

Hi Guys, Not far to go! What an achievement, bet you are stoked! Will miss your daily updates - up hill and down dale. Enjoy the rest of your adventure. Best wishes Chris.
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